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A
Crochet Tutorial
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Bonus Crochet Patterns!
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Some of My Original Creations!
Sorry,
I am not that great with my digital camera. My husband has
pledged to help me retake the pictures, but I figured these will
show a little bit of my crochet projects until I get better
images.
A Crochet-Needle
Cotton or
thread, wool or silk, with a crochet-needle, are the materials required for
working crochet. The needle, whether it be steel or bone, must be smoothly
polished. The long wooden and bone crochet-needles are used for wool; for cotton
and silk work short steel needles screwed into a bone handle are best. The
beauty of the crochet-work depends upon the regularity of the stitches, as is
the case with every other style of needlework. The stitches must be elastic, but
if too loose they look as bad as if too tight.
The size of the needle and that of the cotton or wool must correspond; work only
with the point of the needle, and never move the stitch up and down the needle.
The cotton with which you work must be of the very best quality; for borders,
insertions, rosettes, imitation of guipure, use Evans's crochet cotton; for
couvrettes, counterpanes, covers, &c., use knitting-cotton. All crochet-work
[186] patterns are begun on a foundation chain; there are three kinds of
foundation chains--the plain foundation, the double foundation, and the purl
foundation chain.
The plain
foundation chain consists of chain stitches.
ILLUSTRATION
216.--
Form
a loop with the cotton or other material with which you work, take it on
the needle, and hold the cotton as for knitting on the forefinger and other
fingers of the left hand. The crochet-needle is held in the right hand between
the thumb and forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the
cotton of the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind the
cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cotton from
left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle and draw it as a
loop through the loop already on the needle, which is cast off the needle by
this means and forms one chain stitch. The drawing the cotton through the loop
is repeated until the foundation chain has acquired sufficient length.
When enough chain stitches have been made, take the foundation chain between the
thumb and forefinger of the left hand, so that these fingers are always close to
and under the hook of the needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the
hook of the needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a
loop.
ILLUSTRATION
217(The
Double Foundation Chain).--Crochet
2chain
stitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st chain
stitch,throw the
cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle
and draw it through the two loops on the needle, * draw the cotton as a loop
through the left side of the last stitch (see illustration), wind the cotton
round the needle, and draw it through both loops on the needle. Repeat from *
till the foundation chain is long enough.
ILLUSTRATION
218 (Purl Foundation Chain).--* Crochet 4 chain stitch, then 1 treble
stitch--that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insert the needle downwards
into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chain stitches, wind the cotton round the
needle, draw it through the stitch, wind the cotton again round the needle, and
at the same time draw the cotton through the last loop and through the stitch
formed by winding the cotton round the needle. Wind the cotton once more round
the needle, and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain
stitches form a kind of scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The following
crochet stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; they are all
worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234. Make a loop at the
beginning of every row, as has been described (No. 216), and take it on the
needle.
ILLUSTRATION
219 (Slip Stitch).--Draw the needle through the back part of a foundation chain
stitch, or in the course of the work through the back part of a stitch of the
preceding row, wind the cotton round the needle, anddraw
it through the stitch and loop on the needle. The illustration shows a number of
slip stitches, the last of which is left quite loose; the arrow marks the place
where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch.
ILLUSTRATION
220 (Double Stitch).--These are worked nearly like the preceding ones. Draw the
cotton as a loop through the back part of a stitch, wind the cotton round the
needle, and draw it through the two loops on the needle.
ILLUSTRATION
221.--These double stitches are worked nearly like the
preceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of No. 220; in
the following ones insert the needle into the two upper sides
of a stitch of the preceding row.
ILLUSTRATION
222 (The Ribbed Stitch).--This stitch is worked backwards and
forwards--that is, the right and wrong sides are worked
together, which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle
always into the back part of every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch
at the end of every row, which is not worked, however, in the
following row.
ILLUSTRATION
223 (Slanting Stitch, double stitch).--This stitch is worked
like that described in No. 220; the cotton is not wound round
the needle the first time in the usual manner, but the needle
is placed in the direction of the arrow, above the cotton.
Draw the cotton through as a loop; the stitch is finished like
the common double stitch.
ILLUSTRATION
224 (Cross Stitch).--This stitch is worked like No. 223 on a
foundation like No. 217, only insert the needle through the
two upper sides of a stitch.
Illustration
225 (Long Double).--For this stitch wind the cotton round the
needle, insert it into the back part of a stitch, draw the
cotton out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle,
and cast off together the two loops and the loop formed by
winding the cotton round the needle.
ILLUSTRATION
226 (Treble Stitch).--These stitches are worked as has been
described for the purl foundation chain, No. 218. The treble
stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the stitches
of the preceding row.
ILLUSTRATION
227 (Long Treble).--These are worked like treble stitches,
only the cotton is wound twice round the needle; the
double long treble (illustration 228) is worked by
winding the cotton three times round the needle. The loops
formed by winding the cotton round the needle are cast off one
by one with one of the loops on the needle. The two loops that
remain at the end are cast off together after winding the
cotton round the needle.
ILLUSTRATION
229-231 (Cross Treble).--Illustration 229 shows this stitch
completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in the course
of the work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as for a
long treble, insert the needle into the stitch in which the
first half of the cross treble is to be worked, wind the
cotton round the needle, draw the cotton through as a loop,
wind the cotton again round the needle and cast off together
with the same the loop on the needle and the loop formed by
throwing the cotton forward; you have now 3 loops left on the
needle, 1 of which has been formed by winding the cotton round
the needle; missing these, wind the cotton again round the
needle, miss the 2 next stitches of the foundation chain, and
draw a loop through the third stitch. You have now 5 loops on
the needle. Always cast off 2 loops at a time till only 1 loop
remains on the needle. Work 2 chain stitches (if you wish to
have the stitches more or less) slanting, work 1, 2, or 3
chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of
foundation chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle,
as shown by the arrow on No. 231, into the 2 cross chain of
the completed treble stitch.
ILLUSTRATION
232 (Raised Spots).--The grounding on which these spots are
worked consists of double crochet. They are worked across 3
rows of the ground, and formed of treble stitches, the spots
of one row being placed between those of the preceding. Work
first 2 rows of double stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2
double stitches and then 1 spot as follows:--1 treble,
inserting the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of the first
row (the preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only
completed so far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work
2 treble stitches in the same stitch as the first, which
are also only completed as far as the first treble stitch, so
that after the 2nd treble there remain 3 loops and after the
3rd 4 loops on the needle (see illustration). The 4 loops are
cast off together by winding the cotton once more round the
needle and drawing it through. Miss under the spot the next
double stitch of the preceding row; the spots are repeated at
intervals of 5 stitches and in every other row.
ILLUSTRATION
233 (Hollow Spots).--The ground is worked in double crochet
(illustration 220). These spots, which appear raised, consist
of 5 treble stitches; they are worked in every other row at
intervals of 5 stitches. For working them leave 1 loop on the
needle, insert the needle between the 2 long sides of the
last-worked double stitch, and work 5 treble stitches, always
inserting the needle into the front part of 1 stitch of the
preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirely
without taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the
fifth treble stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by
winding the cotton round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the
preceding row under the spot.
ILLUSTRATION
234 (Open-work Spots).--These spots are treble stitches
divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the latter; for the
rest, they are worked like the raised spots (illustration
232).
ILLUSTRATION
235 (Raised Treble Stitch).--These stitches are long treble
worked on a ribbed ground (illustration 222), and are thrown
across 3 rows of the same. The raised treble are always worked
on the same side of the work and in the long side of the
corresponding stitch of the last row but two. After every row
with treble stitch comes a row in ribbed stitch. At the
beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the treble stitches
begin only in the 4th row.
ILLUSTRATION
236 (Purl Stitch).--These purl stitches imitate a lace edging
perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the loop to a certain
length (this forms the purl), take the needle out of it,
insert it in the front part of the last stitch which has been
worked (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle
and draw it through as a loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on.
ILLUSTRATION
237 (Purl Stitch turned upwards).--Work 1 treble, then 7 chain
stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the 7 chain stitch [198]
downwards, so that the chain stitches form a scallop upwards
(see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw
the cotton through; work 1 chain stitch and 1 treble in the
next stitch but 3, missing 3 stitches under it.
ILLUSTRATION
238 (Purl Stitch turned downwards).--The chain stitches form a
scallop turned downwards. After having worked the 7 chain
stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it underneath
the upper chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to left,
and draw it through the loop in the direction of the arrow.
Wind the cotton round the needle and cast all the loops off
together. It is evident that the purl stitches may be worked
at larger or smaller distances.
Many people enjoy crochet for
its relaxing qualities and satisfying results. It appeals to a
wide number of people, as most of the materials still remain
inexpensive and easy to obtain. Young children are often taught
crochet to increase their fine motor skills, to help in their
learning to count and follow instructions and to bolster their
self-confidence. Amongst older people crochet is popular as a
social activity and to help keep arthritic symptoms in check.
Many people find that crochet
can reduce stress levels. It’s an easily portable craft and
can provide inexpensive and original gifts. Crochet can help
with dexterity; help with eye-hand coordination; help develop
concentration and can be incorporated as part of other crafts.
Crochet means hook in French
and this is the name given to the craft amongst French, Italians
and Spanish speakers. It’s known as haken in Holland, haekling
in Denmark, hekling in Norway and virkning in Sweden. Although
other forms of handwork can be dated far back in time, owing to
archaeological finds no one is quite sure when and where crochet
began.
Crochet is a series of
interlocking loops of thread onto a chain using a thin rod with
a hook at the end. A chain of loops is created, with each new
loop catching the thread and pulling it through the previous
loop. After the chain is completed, the thread is then turned to
start a second chain. There are a large variety of patterns and
stitches. Some of the more common stitches are chain, single
crochet, half-double crochet, double crochet, popcorn crochet,
and cluster crochet.
In the past it was very common
to work directly from a picture of finished work or from a
sample. This is why in early patterns many of the directions
seem to be missing. Women in the nineteenth century were
familiar with crochet and therefore instructions that we need
today were unnecessary at that time.
The story of crochet
continues. By referring to old books, magazines and brochures,
people find techniques that have been forgotten. Often
crocheters think they have invented new crochet stitches, when
they are actually reinventing stitches that have been around for
over a hundred and fifty years.
Age's
Crochet Pages - Afghans,
granny squares, doilies, garments, holiday decor, and toys.
Also includes a terms dictionary, abbreviation guide, and
crochet cursors to download.
AngelCrafts
- Large collection of patterns for baby items, afghans, and
toys, as well as various household projects.
Crafts
Onhighway61.com - Free
patterns for a few stuffed animals, baby clothing, an
afghan, a pillow, and a potholder. Also offers sales of
craft magazines and books and craft classifieds.
Crochet
- Nine-sided kitchen mat, a bookmark, coasters, slippers,
purse, and other small items.
Crochet
by Carole - Toy and doll
patterns from Charles Publishing. Request free pattern and
catalog of 250 others.
Crochet
Collection - Large
collection of afghans, squares, houshold items, toys,
clothing, and Christmas projects.
Crochet,
Gotta Love It - Several
free patterns and graphs for a variety of projects,
including Filet crochet and doilies. Also offers handmade
beaded and beadless rosaries and doilies.
Crochet
Hats For The Homeless -
Free hat and mitten patterns and a newsletter. Use scrap
yarn to make hats and mittens for the homeless.
Crochet
Magazine: Free Patterns -
Quality patterns from various issues of Crochet! magazine,
formerly Fast and Fun Crochet. Patterns in PDF format.
Crochet
'n More: Free Pattern Index
- Categories for afghans, air freshners, coasters, hair and
fashion accessories, kitchen, holiday, and religious
projects.
A
Crochet Page by Dc3tog -
Patterns for afghans, baby afghans, coasters, doilies,
squares, and thread projects. Also offers crochet
abreviations.
Crochet
Patterns to Enjoy - Baby
and holiday items, afghans, flags, pet jackets, wearables,
and household projects. Also offers exchanges and
abbreviations and terms.
Crochet
Quick and Fun - Afghans,
wearables, animal and household items, lace, and other
miscellaneous projects. Also offers instructions, a
newsletter, and related links.
Crochet
Treasures - Vintage
patterns from 1890 through 1960. Doilies, edgings, baby
items, and others. Access to 600+ patterns for a fee. Also
offers vintage stitches, books, and resources.
Crotiques
- Several free graphs for kids and babies, as well as
nautical and outdoor themes, messages, and symbols. Also
offers a few free patterns.
Free
Crochenit Patterns -
Combination of crochet and knit stiches using a double hook.
Includes term definitions and basic stitches. Download in
PDF format.
FreePatterns.com
- Large selection of projects for doilies, afghans and
throws, home decor, clothing, children's items, and special
occasions. Free registration required.
Groovy
Crochet - Vintage patterns
from 1960 to 1974. Clothing for men, women, children, and
babies, as well as accessories and household items.
The
Happy Hooker - Dream the
Happy Hooker shares pattern archives, links to charities and
other crochet resources.
Hop's
Crochet - Free graphs and
patterns for scrunchies, kitchen and bathroom accessories,
Christmas projects, baby items, and afghans. Also offers
completed items and patterns for purchase.
Hugg'ems
Collectables Pattern Index
- Over 70 free patterns for wearables, household and holiday
items. Includes bookmarks, fridgies, curtain toppers, and
other original designs.
JPF
Crochet Club Patterns - Over 80
free designs by Julie A. Bolduc. Offers more with a paid
membership.
Judi's
Crafty Cove - Original designs for
kitchen items, window treatments, scrunchies, doilies,
holiday and preemie items.
Lee's
World Pattern Index - Several
free, original designs by Lee Matthewson, as well as unique
patterns for sale. Home of the "Apple Annie" and
lighthouse projects.
Lion
Brand Yarn - Offers a variety of
high quality patterns and related hook and yarn information.
MaryEllen's
Crochet Homepage - Dozens of
original designs. Each pattern requires worsted weight yarn
and includes a picture of the finished item.
My
Perty Thangs - Free crochet
and beading patterns including slippers, scrunchies, and
household items, as well as combination crochet/beading
projects.
Tam's
Crochet - Offers afghans,
including Q hook and afghan stitch, some kitchen and holiday
items, wearables, and miscellaneous projects.
Trish's
Crochet Treasures -
Original designs for projects such as doll clothing,
doilies, and trinket boxes. Also offers abbreviations chart
and craft links.
WF
Pattern Page Index -
Crochet and knit patterns from the Warming Families charity
organization. Includes warm items such as scarves, blankets,
mittens, socks, slippers, and sweaters.